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The better prepared the ground, the better the lawn will be. Good drainage is important using a specialist topsoil such as our Topsport Topsoil and deep digging will help.
For a first rate lawn, apply a top dressing, (Topsport Topsoil) on an annual basis. Minor hollows will be removed which have developed and an improved soil surface is gradually built up. The layer of top dressing stimulates the formation of new shoots and promotes the development of runners resulting in a denser growth of grass.
For lawns on heavy soil add more sand or Topsport Topsoil and drainage will be improved.
If the soil is very light or sandy, work in a good amount of peat or compost, (Topgrow Topsoil) to give body to the soil and prevent drying out and loss of nutrients.
At this stage, any leveling should be done and care must be taken not to remove too much topsoil from any one area. Sub-soil does not make for a good seedbed; it is low in nutrients and will give variations in growing habit and colour.
The initial digging of the ground should be done over the Autumn and the soil left ‘as dug' in as large lumps as possible over the Winter. This will enable rain and frost to break down the soil and make it crumbly. In the Spring, when the soil is starting to dry out, prepare the ground. Either roll or rake the ground, or tread it down and then rake it. First go one way across the area, rake it over, then firm and rake again, until a firm level surface is achieved.
Finally, Johnson's Bio-Active Lawn Feed can be used as a pre-turfing fertilizer and should be raked into the soil. This will stimulate root growth and provide the essential feed to get the lawn off to a good start. Top
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All of the below information has been provided by Teal Turf and is given as advice but site conditions, the weather and time of year will all need to be taken into consideration.
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Never let you turf dry out - If in doubt, water it!
- Water your new lawn immediately after installation using a hose and sprinkler. A watering can or hand held hosepipe is not good enough.
- Pay particular attention to the edges and corners. You should have the sprinkler on for approximately 45 minutes. Check under the middle of the turf that the water has percolated through the underside.
- Irrigate twice a day for the first week.
- Irrigate once a day in the second week.
- Irrigate as necessary depending on weather conditions in the third and follwing weeks.
- Water areas near buildings and paths more often where reflected heat dries out the turf faster.
- Be aware that windy days dry out the turf as fast as hot days.
- Turf is a living plant and requires as much TLC as any other garden plant and more so in establishment.
- Avoid walking on the turf while your lawn is establishing; when moving your sprinkler use planks to spread your weight across the area.
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During the first 3 weeks, avoid heavy or concentrated use of your lawn - this will give the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with the soil and ensures that the turf will remain smooth.
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Mow approximately 2 weeks from laying during the Spring and Summer seasons or after 3 weeks during Autumn and Winter periods. Make sure the ground is firm enough to walk on without leaving imprints.
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Adjust your mower to its highest setting - it's important that the turf is not cut too short or scalped during the early mowings or left to get too long.
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Never use a strimmer.
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An occassional change of mowing pattern is benficial.
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Rolling of your turf may be necessary in establishing your lawn.
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Now that your lawn is laid, it's important to keep it in tip-top condition.
Listed here are a few essential DO's and DON'Ts.
- DO keep off the new lawn as much as possible while the turf is getting it's roots down and while the ground is settling in. If it's necessary to cross your new lawn, tread lightly so as not to leave any foot prints, (these do not tend to roll out) or use a board to cross it.
- DO mow your lawn regularly, at least once a week in peak growing season. The more you can mow the grass the denser the lawn will become, reducing the risk of weeds/moss getting into the lawn.
- DO aim to cut the grass leaves to about 30mm (1 1/4 inches) this will give you a nice lawn to use and help to retain moisture in dry spells. If the grass gets away, take a maximum of 1/3 off on mowing and slowly reduce the height. Grass clippings are best removed especially in the autumn as they harbour disease.
- DO keep the mower blades sharp - it will be easier to mow and kinder on the grass.
- DO remember tha lawn is a living plant and as such needs food and water. Feeding, any lawn feed is suitable but always follow the instructions accurately. Too much is as bad as none at all. If the lawn gets stressed due to lack of nutrients or lack of water the grass will become sparse and weeds and/or moss will then get a foothold. The grass colour will also change to a light green.
- DON'T skimp on feeding the lawn, as it will become thinner and vulnerable to damage, disease and weeds.
- DON'T leave play equipment in the same spot, unless you are prepared to sacrifice the area.
- DON'T use a strimmer.
- DON'T walk on the lawn when saturated, leave it to dry out.
- DON'T leave tree leaves on the ground in the autumn, as they rot down, acid is produced that effects are weakening and thinning of the lawn.
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